Charmeuse is slippery, so for more accurate cuts, cut in a single layer and not folded as you would with most fabrics. Consider a machine embroidery thread as this is particularly fine. When sewing straight panels in charmeuse, French seams work well and give a luxury finish on the inside by enclosing the raw edges.
For shaped or curved seams use a serger for a narrow join, ideal for such a delicate material. A narrow, double folded hem is suitable for garments made from charmeuse, especially if the hem is shaped or curved. Charmeuse is an ideal fabric to make a softly draping garment cut on the bias diagonally across the grain. For nightwear or special occasion evening wear, a bias-cut is perfect so that the light catches the satin surface and produces a touch of luxury.
For best results, cut pieces out in a single layer, placed over a cotton sheet or cloth. This under-cloth helps to support the charmeuse and prevents it sliding and distorting over the table while you cut.
Use scissors with a fine serrated blade as this grabs the fabric and produces an easier cut, which is especially important when cutting diagonally across the grain. The crepe back makes the satin a bit easier to work with, as it becomes stronger and less slippery.
Charmeuse is not a fabric recommended for beginners, due to the difficulty many people have in working with the cloth. Due to its sheen and softness, the fabric can easily slip through your fingers and through the pedal of the sewing machine.
It can also pucker at the stitches and pins can leave permanent holes. Use smaller stitches and finer thread when sewing charmeuse to minimize the effect of the process on your garment. While silk is the traditional material of charmeuse and remains the most coveted choice today, it can be quite expensive and even harder to sew.
Polyester, which can closely imitate silk charmeuse, is a cost-effective alternative. While, to the eye, polyester and silk charmeuse may be indistinguishable, polyester charmeuse's affordability makes it the more logical choice for some occasions, especially bridesmaid and prom dresses.
It's also becoming more common as an interior decorating fabric, due to its durability. Polyester is stronger and easier to clean than silk.
Charmeuse has traditionally been a popular fabric for women's clothing. Therefore, the front of charmeuse is glossy and very smooth, while the backing is matte and slightly rough due to crepe yarns.
If you are a beginner, you should not use Charmeuse. Otherwise, the fabric can easily slip through your fingers and through the pedal of the sewing machine because of its sheen and softness. Besides, it may pucker at the stitches and pins can leave permanent holes. When sewing charmeuse, you had better use smaller stitches to minimize the effect of the process on your garment. However, today, people use it to make wedding dresses, bridesmaid dresses, prom dresses and theatrical costumes, because of its sheen reflects well on the stage.
Besides, charmeuse is also used to make lingerie and nightwear, due to its feel against the skin. Fashion Articles. Charmeuse, Habutae or Habotai , and Satin are very similar lightweight fabrics that drape nicely. They are most often used for making apparel and decorations. Charmeuse and satin are both satin weave fabrics with a matte backing.
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